Pan-Asian Fast Food Find

By Kathleen Cline

Pho Fusion Asian, 8800 E. Hampden Avenue, Denver

303-843-6080

It was a gloomy day when T-Wa Terrace on Yosemite

closed. Was this the end of authentic Vietnamese food east of

Federal Boulevard? After 17 years, gregarious owner Hai Bird

closed her kitchen but kept the love for her native cuisine

alive, and fortunately for us, has applied her experience to her

son's venture Pho Fusion Asian. While Tom Bird's Pan-Asian

fast-casual restaurant is in a pared-down modern setting, the

menu is expanded beyond Viet Nam to appeal to a wider

audience. Dishes from China and Thailand are wok-tossed

alongside Vietnamese favorites.

Pho Fusion uses unprocessed produce and meats. For

chicken recipes chefs use only white meat. They prep vegeta

-bles twice a day and purchase ethnic herbs and spices three

to four times a week from local Asian markets. This commit-

ment to freshness and quality pays off big time in flavor. A

winner in Westword's 2006 "Best of Denver", Pho Fusion's

wonderfully fragrant pho is prepared from scratch daily. This

Vietnamese staple is a soup of slow simmered meat-based

broth, onions, scallions and rice noodles, along with a meat

selection of chicken, shaved beef or meatballs. Traditionally

each diner garnishes his soup with fresh basil, chilies, bean

sprouts and lime with hot sauce and hoisin added to taste.

This meal in a bowl is well worth the trip.

You can order the familiar Vietnamese grilled

Noodle bowl of rice noodles over shredded lettuce, bean

sprouts, carrot slices and crushed peanuts with beef, chicken,

pork, tofu or shrimp. Thai- inspired dishes include excellent

Pad Thai and an aromatic curry with a perfect blend of lemon-

grass, chili and coconut. China is well represented with a flavorful

and not-too-sweet sesame chicken, a garlicky and slightly

salty beef and broccoli and pan seared fried rice. Brown rice

is offered as well as white.

The highest priced item is $7.95. Portions are more than

generous, and I always leave with a few take-home boxes of

leftovers. Pho Fusion's mantra is "Smile big. Laugh often. Eat

well." With a great new source for some of my favorite food,

I'm smiling and eating very well.

Editor's Note: "Buzz Eats" restaurant reviews reflect

the experiences of Kathleen Cline, who offers her

recommendations for dining out. Buzz in the 'burbs is in

no way compensated by restaurants named in "Buzz Eats."